Hyaluronic acid for healthy skin
Hyaluronic acid for healthy skin
Hyaluronic acid is a polysaccharide and a natural component of the dermis (leather skin). First isolated from the vitreous humor of a bovine eye in 1934, it has been produced from rooster combs and also by fermentation since the end of the 1980s. Today, production is preferably carried out biotechnologically with the help of Molecular weight is measured in Daltons. Molecular weights have specific effects, which I will explain below.
Effect and cosmetic use for healthy skin High molecular hyaluronic acid:
1-1.5MDa (1 megadalton, or MDa for short, corresponds to 1000 kilodaltons kDa) forms a gel-like structure when dissolved in water. It lies as a thin film on the skin, but this is much less pronounced than other film formers because it bonds with the skin's ceramides via hydrogen bonds. It effectively forms moisture on the skin (stratum corneum), prevents the skin's own water from evaporating too quickly and thus acts as a hydrator. Its more effective moisture-binding effect for healthy skin than other hydrators results from the fact that it only releases its hydration mantle after several hours and thus works over a long period of time. Its optically skin-tightening and smoothing effect, which results from the evaporation of water and the resulting slight tightening of the gel film on the skin, is very good. For this reason, this variety is often found in facial care products.
Low molecular weight hyaluronic acid:
less than 30,000 Daltons (kDa) Due to its significantly smaller molecular size, it penetrates deeper beneath the skin (stratum corneum) and binds moisture there. Unlike high-molecular hyaluronic acid, it neither exhibits film-forming properties nor does it thicken the water phase. Therefore, when manufacturing cosmetics, an additional gelling agent must be included or combined with high-molecular hyaluronic acid.
processing
The concentration of both hyaluronic acids is low. The literature specifies a dosage of 1% for high-molecular-weight hyaluronic acid. According to the manufacturer, low-molecular-weight hyaluronic acid is also dosed at 1%. It dissolves significantly more easily. Both products are used in emulsions and water-based preparations for homemade cosmetics, as they are released and work optimally there. Since high-molecular-weight hyaluronic acid thickens very quickly and tends to form lumps, I prefer to add it to the hot, freshly boiled water phase while the stirrer is running. However, the lumps dissolve on their own after a while.
Combine low molecular weight hyaluronic acid optimally with our gelling agent xanthan.
A small amount of oil significantly reduces the exciting feeling of a pure hyaluronic-stabilized gel.
Hyaluronic acid is particularly effective for dry skin with a compromised barrier layer. It also acts as a first aid measure by hydrating (moisturizing) the skin's stratum corneum. It's a great preparatory step for further moisturizing treatments with replenishing properties.
We recommend a combination of both types of hyaluronic acid. This protects against all weather conditions and thus ensures healthy skin.
Your Naturellia Team