hyaluronic acid

Hyaluronic acid is a polysaccharide and a natural component of, among other things, the dermis. First isolated from the vitreous body of a bovine eye in 1934, since the late 1980s it has been produced not only from cockscombs but also by fermentation; Today, production is preferably carried out biotechnologically with the help of Molecular weight is measured in Daltons. Molecular weights have specific modes of action which I will explain below.

Effect and cosmetic use

High-molecular hyaluronic acid: 1-1.5MDa (1 megadalton, MDa for short, corresponds to 1000 kilodaltons kDa) forms a gel-like structure when dissolved in water. It lies on the skin as a thin film, which, however, is significantly less pronounced than with other film formers, since they combine with the ceramides of the skin via hydrogen bridges. It effectively forms moisture on the skin (stratum corneum), prevents the skin's own water from evaporating too quickly and thus acts as a hydrator. Its more effective moisture-binding effect than other hydrating agents is due to the fact that it takes several hours to shed its hydration coat, and in this way works over a long period of time. Its optically skin-tightening and smoothing effect, which results from the evaporation of water and the resulting slight tightening of the gel film on the skin, is very good. For this reason, this strain is often found in facial care products.

Low molecular weight hyaluronic acid: under 50,000 daltons (kDa) Due to the significantly smaller molecular size, penetrates deeper under the skin (stratum corneum) and binds moisture there. In contrast to the high-molecular hyaluronic acid, it has neither film-forming properties nor does it have a thickening effect on the water phase. In the manufacture of cosmetics, another gelling agent must therefore be planned or combined with high-molecular hyaluronic acid.

processing

The use concentration of both hyaluronic acids is low. In the literature, a dosage of 1% is given for high-molecular hyaluronic acid. According to the manufacturer, low-molecular HY is also dosed by 1%. It dissolves much easier. Both products are used in the self-manufacturing of cosmetics in emulsions and water-based preparations, since they can be optimally released and work there. Since high-molecular hyaluronic acid thickens very quickly and tends to form lumps, I prefer to add it to the hot, freshly boiled water phase with the stirrer running. However, the lumps will dissolve on their own after a while.

Combine low-molecular hyaluronic acid optimally with our gelling agent xanthan.

A small amount of oil significantly reduces the exciting feeling of a pure hyaluron-stabilized gel.

Hyaluronic acid shows its strength in dry skin with a disturbed barrier layer. Also as a first aid measure, it hydrates (moistens) the horny layer of the skin. A great preparation for further moisturizing care with moisturizing properties.

We recommend a combination of both HY varieties. Above all, this protects against all weather influences.